Where should you start with home security?
Start at your doors, because that is where most break-in attempts happen. Front, back, and side entry doors are the points an intruder tests first, so a strong lock and a solid door frame do more for your security than almost anything else you can buy. Before adding cameras or sensors, make sure the basics on every exterior door are sound.
Security works best in layers. The goal is not to make your home impenetrable, which is impossible, but to add enough friction and visibility that an intruder gives up and moves on. Each layer below buys you time and deterrence, and they compound when you combine them.
- Locks and hardware: a quality deadbolt on every exterior door, properly aligned in the frame.
- The door and frame themselves: a solid-core or metal door and a reinforced strike plate matter as much as the lock.
- Secondary entry points: sliding glass doors, garage service doors, gates, and ground-floor windows.
- Visibility and habits: lighting, trimmed landscaping, and consistently locking up, even for short trips.
What kind of deadbolt and locks should I use?
Deadbolts are rated by ANSI/BHMA grades. Grade 1 is the highest residential-and-commercial rating and offers the most resistance to force, Grade 2 is a solid choice for most homes, and Grade 3 meets only the minimum residential standard. For exterior doors, a Grade 1 or Grade 2 single-cylinder deadbolt with at least a one-inch throw bolt is a sensible target. The bolt should fully extend into the strike, not just catch the edge.
A common and avoidable mistake is pairing a good deadbolt with a weak strike plate held by short screws. The strike plate is the metal piece on the door frame that the bolt slides into. Many come with three-quarter-inch screws that only bite into the door jamb trim. Replacing them with 3-inch screws that reach the wall stud behind the frame dramatically increases how much force the door can take.
Single-cylinder deadbolts use a thumb-turn inside and a key outside, and are the standard for most homes. Double-cylinder deadbolts require a key on both sides, which can be a safety hazard during a fire or emergency exit, so check local code and think carefully before installing one on any door near a glass panel.
- Aim for a Grade 1 or Grade 2 deadbolt on exterior doors.
- Upgrade strike plate screws to 3-inch screws that reach the wall stud.
- Make sure the bolt fully extends and the door is aligned so it locks without forcing.
- Prefer single-cylinder deadbolts for safe interior exit unless you have a specific reason and code allows otherwise.
Should I rekey or replace my locks?
Rekeying changes the internal pins inside the lock cylinder so that old keys no longer work and a new key takes their place. The lock hardware stays on your door. Replacement means installing entirely new lock hardware. The right choice depends on why you are changing your locks.
Rekey when the locks are in good shape and you simply want to control who has a working key, for example after moving into a new home, after a roommate or tenant moves out, after losing a key, or after a contractor or house cleaner had access. Rekeying is typically faster and more affordable than replacing every lock, and a locksmith can often key several locks to a single new key so you carry fewer keys.
Replace when the lock is worn, sticking, damaged, corroded, or outdated, or when you want a higher security grade, a different finish, or a smart lock. As a rough, clearly-estimated industry range, rekeying often runs in the tens of dollars per cylinder plus a service call, while new lock hardware and installation generally costs more depending on the lock you choose. These are typical industry ranges for planning only, not a quote. For an exact price, request a free quote.
- Rekey after a move, a lost key, or whenever someone with a key no longer needs access.
- Replace when hardware is damaged, worn, outdated, or you want a higher grade or smart lock.
- Ask about keying multiple locks alike so one key opens several doors.
- Treat any quoted dollar figures online as estimates; confirm with a free quote for your specific locks.
How do I secure sliding doors, garages, and windows?
Sliding glass patio doors are a frequent weak point because the standard latch is often flimsy. A simple, inexpensive improvement is a security bar or a sturdy dowel laid in the track to stop the door from sliding open, plus an anti-lift device or adjusting the rollers so the panel cannot be lifted out of its track. These steps are cheap and make a real difference.
Garages deserve attention because the service door connecting the garage to the house is sometimes left as a hollow interior door with a basic lock. Treat that connecting door like an exterior door: a solid door and a real deadbolt. Keep the overhead garage door opener out of parked cars, and never leave the garage door remote in a vehicle parked in the driveway.
For windows, make sure existing latches actually work and engage fully. Ground-floor and basement windows are the ones to prioritize. Aftermarket window locks, pin locks, or sash stops add a layer for accessible windows. The aim throughout is to remove the easy, quiet entry options so an intruder has to make noise or work harder, which is often enough to deter them.
- Add a track bar or dowel and an anti-lift adjustment to sliding patio doors.
- Treat the garage-to-house door as an exterior door with a solid door and deadbolt.
- Keep garage remotes and spare keys out of parked vehicles.
- Verify window latches engage fully and add secondary locks to accessible ground-floor windows.
Are smart locks a good idea?
Smart locks can be a genuine convenience and a security upgrade when chosen and installed well. They let you give temporary access codes instead of physical keys, see a log of when the door was locked or unlocked, and lock up remotely if you forget. Many models pair a smart deadbolt with a traditional key override, which is a practical fallback if the batteries die or the electronics fail.
When shopping, look for a lock that carries a real ANSI/BHMA security grade rather than only marketing language, supports a common standard such as Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Z-Wave, Zigbee, or the newer Matter framework so it fits your setup, and lets you require a unique PIN. Treat your access codes like keys: delete codes you gave to a guest, contractor, or former resident once they no longer need them, and avoid obvious PINs.
A smart lock is only as strong as the door and frame it sits in. Adding a smart deadbolt to a misaligned door or a frame with a weak strike plate gives you convenience without the underlying physical security. Get the mechanical basics right first, then layer the smart features on top.
- Choose a smart lock with a real security grade and a mechanical key override.
- Pick a connectivity standard (Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Z-Wave, Zigbee, Matter) that matches your home setup.
- Manage access codes actively: remove codes once people no longer need access.
- Fix the door, frame, and strike plate before relying on smart features.
What should I do after moving into a new home?
If you just moved into a home anywhere in San Jose, from Willow Glen to Almaden Valley, Cambrian Park, Berryessa, or Evergreen, assume you do not know who holds a working key. Previous owners or tenants, their relatives, real estate agents, cleaners, and contractors may all have had copies. Rekeying or replacing the exterior locks is the single most worthwhile first-week security task in a new place.
While you are at it, do a quick walk-around audit. Test every exterior door lock and deadbolt, check that strike plates are secure, look for a hidden spare key the prior resident may have left near the door, confirm sliding doors and the garage connecting door are secured, and note any windows with broken latches. Writing down what you find makes it easy to tackle in priority order.
Older South Bay homes sometimes have decades-old locks, mismatched keys across doors, or doors that have shifted with the seasons so the bolt no longer seats cleanly. A locksmith can rekey everything to a single key, replace tired hardware, and realign doors so the locks actually do their job. If you would like a professional set of eyes on a new home, request a free quote.
- Rekey or replace exterior locks in your first week so old keys no longer work.
- Do a door-by-door audit of deadbolts, strike plates, sliding doors, and the garage door.
- Look for and remove any hidden spare keys left by previous occupants.
- Consider keying all doors alike to simplify your keyring.
Simple habits that improve security for free
Hardware matters, but everyday habits close the gap between having good locks and actually being protected. The most common way a home is entered is through an unlocked door, so the highest-value habit is simply locking every exterior door and the deadbolt every time, including short trips and overnight.
Visibility deters. Keep entry areas well lit, trim shrubs and trees away from doors and windows so there are fewer hiding spots, and make the home look lived-in when you travel by using timers on a couple of lights and pausing mail and package deliveries. Avoid hiding spare keys in obvious spots like under the mat or a flowerpot; leave a spare with a trusted neighbor instead, or use a quality lockbox.
Finally, keep a plan for the moments locks fail you. Save the contact for a local mobile locksmith before you are standing outside a locked door, label your keys discreetly rather than with your address, and address a sticking or hard-to-turn lock early, since a lock that is becoming difficult to operate often fails completely at the worst time.
- Lock every exterior door and the deadbolt, every time, even for short trips.
- Light entryways, trim landscaping, and make the home look occupied when away.
- Skip obvious spare-key hiding spots; use a trusted neighbor or a quality lockbox.
- Fix sticking locks early and keep a local locksmith's contact saved in advance.
